For the hem detail, I left the edge of the skirt raw (just did a row of stitching to hem to keep fraying under control) and then for some interest I cut 1.5" strips of the knit fabric and stitched them on using a wide zigzag stitch, forming the pleats free hand as I was stithing down the fabric. The knit fabric will not fray.
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Skirts- the owl and the pussycat?
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Woops
The other night I was having my usual evening blog surf, as you do, and came across this raw edge applique circle quilt which I thought looked great and I book marked for later reference (I must have a hundred tutorials bookmarked for later reference LOL).
Well blow me down but looked what had appeared in my sewing room by the following afternoon!



This was super quick to do, Allison sure came up with a really neat method to create a drunkards path look but without any of the curved piecing. I used up scraps only for this project... mostly left overs from tin whistle creations (pram liners etc), so thats why it looks so... well scrappy. I tried to mainly stick with brights, leaning to the novelty prints, but chucked in a few non-matchy type prints tones just to keep it that little bit more unique and ecclectic.
This was super quick to do, Allison sure came up with a really neat method to create a drunkards path look but without any of the curved piecing. I used up scraps only for this project... mostly left overs from tin whistle creations (pram liners etc), so thats why it looks so... well scrappy. I tried to mainly stick with brights, leaning to the novelty prints, but chucked in a few non-matchy type prints tones just to keep it that little bit more unique and ecclectic.
The only changes I made to Allisons tutorial was to cut out 8.5" circles (instead of her 6.5") and sew them onto 10.5" squares (instead of her 8.5"). I only did this to build a bigger quilt quicker, but in some ways it was limiting because many of my scraps were too small to be used. If i was going to do it again from scraps I would stick with Allisons measurements, but if I was going to buy fabric for the project then I would use the bigger measurements, just because I dont like my blocks too small.
This top is just going to hang off the bookself (AKA design wall) for a while. I am pondering some borders- perhaps some scrappy sashing from the left over bits featured in the main top... but the final decision wont get made until I have someone to give it too! And then the decision will probably be determined by how much time I have before it needs to be given to them!
Monday, January 24, 2011
Innocent Crush squishy quilt complete.
Perfect timing too, because today we woke up to a cold rainy day in Perth (even though its the middle of summer). In fact as soon as George discovered this was a "warm" (ie smooth and silky) quilt it was all I could do to wrestle it off him for a decent photoshoot.
Finally I managed to wrestle the quilt away and sneak it outside to take a proper picture of it. I like how even from here you can see how warm and puffy and silky it is.
Sunday, January 23, 2011
On a roll today...
George did have is first swim without floaties though. Its a pity it was unintentional and his head going unde scared the beejesus out of him.
Snapshot sunday.... Quilting
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Innocent crush- squishy quilt top
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Snapshot sunday- pumpkins and snowmen
*Tutorial* Raggy quilt- kids style
This is a BIG blog post about making kids raggy quilts... that is the kids make them for themselves. The kids featured in this tutorial are aged between 7 and 10 :)
To make a lap sized quilt you need approx 2.5-3 yards of quilt fabric for the top (for example 5 half yard cuts of co-ordinating quilters cottons) and 3 yards of flanellette (brushed cotton) for the backing fabric. But if you want to make it an even cheaper project use flanellette for both the front and back of the quilt.
This quilt does not have wadding in it, and this is what makes it such a simple project for kids. However, because it has no wadding, its important to use flanellette for the backing of this quilt (and the front if you want), to give it a bit of snuggliness and help rag up the seams.
NOTE- for young novice sewers its quite important to build this quilt from LARGE squares of fabric (9" plus). This is so that the quilt can be quilt quickly with a fairly minimal amount of sewing. The idea is for them to feel really proud of themselves for completing a 'big' quilt and build confidence rather that turn out a really intricate creation.
Use the same method to cut out the backing fabric (flanellette) into squares. I hope this doesnt confuse you because of the 'note' i just wrote above, but one of my children is not a novice sewer and decided to make her raggy quilt using some 5" denim charms I had stashed away. She is cutting her flanellette backing fabric into 5" squares, but still used the cardboard template and scissors method.
Once all the squares are cut out the fabric for the quilt top needs to me marked with chalk lines accross the diagional. Matilda is using my large quilt ruler (which you can just see under her left hand) and some taylors chalk.
Of course being only 7 she isnt expected to be perfect at handling such a big ruler etc and as you can see the chalk lines are a bit wonky. This is fine. This quilt method is very forgiving.
Once all the fabric for the quilt top has been marked with chalk its time to sew. Take one square of 'top' fabric and one square of 'botton' fabric and place them together so that the wrongs sides are touching. Use 4 pins to secure the squares to each other. Place the pincs right in the middle of each triangle shape, well away from your chalk lines. Using your diagional chalk lines as a guide have the child stitch across each square. There is no need to back stitch to secure the threads. Just stitch in a nice straight line following the chalk line as best you can.
Once you are finished you should have an "x" stitched onto your square and the two pieces of fabric should be firmly joined and you can remove the pins. It doesnt matter if the stitching is perfectly straight, and in fact I think having it wonky just adds to the charm!

Elizabeth has just about finished stitching all her fabric pairs together. Because she was a bit older I showed her how to chain stitch... there is a pic of this 3 posts up.
I have a son, and in case you were wondering, he was hanging about the whole day we had this marathon sewing session. Here is he having a nap on the couch.

Once you have stitched all the fabric pairs together with diagional lines its time to lay out all you squares and arrange them in a way that is pleasing to you. Elizabeths denim quilt had a mixture of light and dark denims, as well as a few squares with denim pockets or embroidery on them. We arranged the blocks randomly but with an even scatter of light and dark denim.
Ella's quilt was also arranged in a random way, but also making sure there was an even scatter of colour throughout the quilt.

Matilda's quilt was arranged in a diagional pattern.
To sew the quilt to together pick up two adjecent blocks (above) and place them so that the flanelette backing fabric touches and then stich the seam with a generous seam allowance (suggest about 0.5-1inch). It might also help if you actually place some masking tape on your metal place about 1" away from your needle to kids the kids a really good visual. They can butt the edge of the fabric up against the masking tape.

Here is Matilda stitching the seam.
And here she is holding up her first completed row.
Here is a pic of Matildas quilt showing how the squares are stiched together (into pairs) and then the pairs are stiched together to join the rows.

And Elizabeths quilt showing the same thing. Once you have joined all the squares into rows the rows need to be joined to each other. Ideally the all the "points" should match up with each other, but the reality is that they wont. The squares would not all have started out at exactly 10" and the kids would not have sewing even seam allowances, so some rows will end up longer than others etc. Just match up as best you can, and you may need to let out or increase some seam allowances to get all the rows to match up nicely. It doesnt matter if the seams look a bit like a dogs brekfast, because they get "ragged" up and all the mistakes will be hidden ;)
Once all the squares are stitched together its necessary to run a row of stitching all the way around the quilt. There is no binding on this quilt, and the row of stitching allows the raw edge to "rag" (fray) up to the seam but no further.

Next, and final job, is to carefully snip each seam to get the fraying process happening quickly.
Snip about 1/2" apart but but try not to snip over the seam! If you do... dont panic, just resew that seam, going around the snipped bit to secure it.
Matilda with her finished quilt (unsnipped in this photo). Just so you dont get confused, we ended up changing the layout of her quit slightly. In the photo above it was a square quilt with a 6x6 layout, and we ended up sewing it as a rectangular quilt with a 5x7 layout.
The back of Matilda's quilt.
Ella's quilt... again we swapped from a 6x6 layout to a 5 x 7 one.

The back of Ella's quilt. If the randon placing of a directional print is likely to annoy your child its best for the to pick a non-directional pring for the backing fabric (like Matildas). It would be quite a challenge for a child to try and sew this quilt so that both the front and back had 'direction'.
Elizabeth has just about finished stitching all her fabric pairs together. Because she was a bit older I showed her how to chain stitch... there is a pic of this 3 posts up.
Once you have stitched all the fabric pairs together with diagional lines its time to lay out all you squares and arrange them in a way that is pleasing to you. Elizabeths denim quilt had a mixture of light and dark denims, as well as a few squares with denim pockets or embroidery on them. We arranged the blocks randomly but with an even scatter of light and dark denim.
Matilda's quilt was arranged in a diagional pattern.
And Elizabeths quilt showing the same thing. Once you have joined all the squares into rows the rows need to be joined to each other. Ideally the all the "points" should match up with each other, but the reality is that they wont. The squares would not all have started out at exactly 10" and the kids would not have sewing even seam allowances, so some rows will end up longer than others etc. Just match up as best you can, and you may need to let out or increase some seam allowances to get all the rows to match up nicely. It doesnt matter if the seams look a bit like a dogs brekfast, because they get "ragged" up and all the mistakes will be hidden ;)
Next, and final job, is to carefully snip each seam to get the fraying process happening quickly.
The back of Ella's quilt. If the randon placing of a directional print is likely to annoy your child its best for the to pick a non-directional pring for the backing fabric (like Matildas). It would be quite a challenge for a child to try and sew this quilt so that both the front and back had 'direction'.
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