I impulse bought some lovely shirting fabric a couple of months ago and then searched through all my patterns for a nice shirt pattern. I eventually settled on Pattern 4 from Women's Ottobre 5/2009, called "Perfect white shirt". Now this is a lovely shirt pattern, its a quite involved to make as it has darts, plackets, collar and cuffs but it was totally worth the effort! I didn't make any modifications except to cut the hip part of the shirt a size larger than the bust, because, you guessed it, I bigger in the hip compared to my bust!
The cuffs are just lovely, wide with a big fold up and three little buttons to do it up.
I was really pleased with myself that the collar worked perfectly. The pattern is designed to look like a mans collared shirt, but is actually a bit more open at the neck and is not designed to buttoned all the way up. The top two buttons you can see here are merely for decoration and do not have corresponding button holes.
Here is how it looks on... sorry about the 'self portrait'!

The next shirt pattern I decided to try out was the new Make it Perfect "Shearwater" pattern. Now I don't want to bag this one out, because I am actually pretty happy with it (now) but...... the Shearwater pattern was very simple (I didn't even use the instructions) but I wasn't really impressed with the fit.
Anyway getting back to the Shearwater pattern. The main problem was the sleeves... they were too tight in the upper arm causing the whole bust area to feel tight, like I would rip the seams if I tried to do any stretching (like hang out my washing or pick up a child). The sleeves were also a tad too short. I am not tall by the way, and a pretty average size for my height etc. So I guess I was a bit disappointed that the loose kaftan style of the shearwater was too tight for me! Since I had enough fabric left over for new sleeves I decided to rip the originals out and and replace them with roomier ones.
What I did was this...The sleeve gets cut out on a fold of fabric, creating a sleeve front and back identical to each other. So I took the sleeve pattern piece and lay it about an inch away from the fold. Giving me another 2" of fabric through the middle of the sleeve. Now obviously this was going to make the curve at the top of the sleeve 2" bigger than the curve in the shoulder of the main bodice, so I ran gathering stitched along the top of the sleeve and added slight gathers to the sleeve top. You can see that in the pic below, where the sleeve balloons out slightly from the shoulder seam. It was easy to correct the short sleeve length, I just added a few inches to it when I was cutting out the new sleeves.
I guess that's what so great about Ottobre, the sizing is always true, and with the Perfect white shirt pattern had all those darts etc so it just fit really well. A basic pattern, like the Shearwater, designed for beginners probably was always going be a let down. And to be fair, the Ottobre shirt also took 3 times as long to make! And its also a completely different type of shirt.
Anyway getting back to the Shearwater pattern. The main problem was the sleeves... they were too tight in the upper arm causing the whole bust area to feel tight, like I would rip the seams if I tried to do any stretching (like hang out my washing or pick up a child). The sleeves were also a tad too short. I am not tall by the way, and a pretty average size for my height etc. So I guess I was a bit disappointed that the loose kaftan style of the shearwater was too tight for me! Since I had enough fabric left over for new sleeves I decided to rip the originals out and and replace them with roomier ones.
What I did was this...The sleeve gets cut out on a fold of fabric, creating a sleeve front and back identical to each other. So I took the sleeve pattern piece and lay it about an inch away from the fold. Giving me another 2" of fabric through the middle of the sleeve. Now obviously this was going to make the curve at the top of the sleeve 2" bigger than the curve in the shoulder of the main bodice, so I ran gathering stitched along the top of the sleeve and added slight gathers to the sleeve top. You can see that in the pic below, where the sleeve balloons out slightly from the shoulder seam. It was easy to correct the short sleeve length, I just added a few inches to it when I was cutting out the new sleeves.

